Housetraining
The Very Young Puppy
(Under 16 weeks of age) by Lesley Morrow
It takes A Human To Make A Dog Soil Its Bed Successful housetraining
depends mostly on the humans involved in the process. By using prevention
instead of punishment, with vigilance, reasonable expectations, and
by using a puppy's natural instincts, housetraining can be accomplished
painlessly and in a reasonably short time. Breed and/or sex have no
impact on the ease or difficulty of teaching your puppy to eliminate
in a specific area (be it outdoors, on newspapers, or in a kitty litter
box.)
Puppies are instinctively
clean. From birth, they leave the pile of sleeping littermates and go
as far away as possible to eliminate. Unless forced to do so, puppies
will not soil their bed and this instinct is your greatest training
aid.
Scolding or Punishing A Very
Young Puppy Is Ineffective and Counterproductive.
The younger the pup, the less time between impulse and action. He needs
to eliminate, so he does. Punishing or even scolding a very young puppy
has no more effect than it would have on an infant in diapers. Fortunately,
a puppy will train a whole lot faster than a baby!
Confinement: the Basic Rule
of Housetraining
Before we go any further, let me assure you that confining your dog
is not cruel! In the wild, canines instinctively seek out small enclosed
spaces in which to make their dens. If you have obtained your puppy
from a reliable and knowledgeable breeder, your puppy will be accustomed
to being confined and will accept this in your home, provided you do
not allow him the run of the house.
It is far more cruel to give
a dog that is untrained too much freedom, too fast, which guarantees
puddles and messes all over your house. The puppy becomes subject to
constant reprimands, which will probably be after the fact, so he has
no idea why you are upset; you are frustrated by the unpleasant task
of cleaning up after him, and having your good carpet soiled; and things
might get so bad that you either put the dog in exile in an outdoor
kennel, or you recycle him.... or even have him destroyed.
Which is worse? Being euthanized,
spending your life alone in a backyard, or spending part of every day
in a comfortable and safe area?
Before you bring your puppy
home, decide where and in what, he is going to sleep. Strongly recommended
is the crate, a wire or fiberglass and wire enclosure, big enough for
the puppy to stretch out in comfortably, but not big enough for him
to have a sleeping and "bathroom" areas. If you have a puppy
of the large or giant breeds, and expense is a consideration, you may
want to purchase the size crate your dog will need as an adult and partition
it off, giving him more room as he grows.
Another option is a discarded
baby playpen, with wiring fastened around the outside of the slats to
insure that the pup can't get caught between them or wriggle out. Collapsible
fencing or commercial exercise pens, attached to a wall or walls can
be used to enclose an area. Baby gates or commercial dog gates can be
used to enclose a small area.
The crate has a decided advantage
over these other options in that it is portable. Puppies and dogs need
companionship, and the crate can be moved from room to room (although
you may find yourself, like many doggie folk, with crates in many rooms.
They make handy end and coffee tables!). It is also a benefit if your
dog is crate trained, should he have to stay confined because of illness
or surgery. In case of automobile accident, it is safer for your dog
if he is travelling in a crate, rather than loose in the car. There
may be times when you want to protect your dog from untrained children,
or you may have company who is afraid of dogs. Many hotels and motels
will only accept dogs if they are crated.
The crate is the dog's bed,
his haven, and as he earns his freedom in the house, you will find that
you can leave your crate open, and he will go in and out at will. It
is his place, his den, and he feels safe and comfortable there.
What Should I Put In The
Crate For My Puppy To Sleep On?
Nothing.
Did you ever wonder why,
if there was one tiny throw rug in the midst of a sea of linoleum, your
dog or puppy always messed on the rug? It's because of Rule Number 2:
dogs always seek the most absorbent place to do their business. Since
we don't want the puppy to get the idea that we want him to soil his
crate, don't put a blanket or towel, or even a canvas covered crate
pillow inside, yet. Later, after the puppy has demonstrated cleanliness
in the crate, you may do so.
Introducing Your Puppy To
His Place of Confinement
Ideally, your puppy will come to you already crate-trained. However,
not all puppies have ideal beginnings, so you may have to introduce
your puppy to the crate.
One way to introduce the
crate is by removing the door and surrounding it with an exercise pen,
where the exercise pen area can be covered with newspapers if the puppy
must be unsupervised, or if you must leave the puppy alone for more
hours a day than he is capable of regulating his eliminations. This
arrangement allows the puppy to keep his bed (the crate) clean. Feed
the puppy in his crate, and if he is reluctant to go in to eat, put
the bowls just in the doorway, so he can stand outside and eat with
only his head inside. At each meal, put the bowls an inch or two further
back, until he willingly goes in to eat. Also keep a few toys in the
crate.
When he is comfortable eating
in the crate it is time to teach him to stay quietly inside while confined.
Put the door back on the crate. This time, when you feed him, close
the door. As soon as he is done eating, let him out and take him to
his potty area.
How Often Should I Take My
Puppy Outside?
Generally, a puppy should only be confined as many daytime hours as
he is months old before being taken out to relieve himself. That is,
an 8 week old puppy will need to go out every two hours during the day.
Doubling that for the night would mean that an 8 week old puppy should
be taken out every four hours during the night. A 12 week old pup would
go 3 hours during the day and 6 at night; a 16 week old would go 4 hours
and give you an 8 hour night. These are guidelines, of course, and every
puppy is a little different. You may get lucky, and have one that will
sleep the night from day one, or yours may take a little longer to get
there.
Very young puppies need to
go out first thing in the morning, immediately after eating and/or drinking,
after playtimes, immediately upon waking, and immediately before you
retire for the night. Then, if there is any time left, take him out
according to the schedule outlined in the previous paragraph.
Your personal schedule may
not allow you to follow the schedule rigidly. If there is any way for
you to adjust your schedule for a few weeks to allow you to accommodate
the puppy's needs, you will be repaid in a short time with a dog that
is reliably housebroken. If you cannot adjust your schedule, then please
adjust your mindset to accepting the fact that it will take a little
longer for your puppy to get the message. If you know you are going
to be gone for more hours than your puppy can reasonably be expected
to control himself, then make it easy on both of you. Suspend your attempts
to housetrain during that time, put him in an area where he can leave
his bed (crate) to eliminate. The crate surrounded by an exercise pen
described previously works fine. Just put down plenty of newspaper for
the pup to use while you're gone, clean it up when you get home, and
go on with your training. Quite often, once the pup develops the muscular
control, he will try and wait for your return, in spite of having those
papers available.
If you are using newspapers,
take note of where your pup makes his deposits. Gradually start removing
the papers around this area, until you only have to leave a small section
covered for him.
It is generally best to carry
the puppy outside because the pup's bowel and sphincter are stimulated
by walking. Set him down where you want him to go and then you just
stand in one place until he goes. Always go with your puppy, even if
you have a fenced yard. Your being there t is the only way to know if
he has relieved himself and you cannot give timely praise if you can't
see what he is doing.
You can teach you pup to
relieve herself on command by telling her to "Go potty" or
"get busy" (or whatever words you want to use) just as she
starts to relieve himself. Praise quietly while she is going (don't
distract her!) and then give enthusiastic praise and a treat (if you
use them) when she is done.
If the Very Young Puppy Has
An Accident In The House
It is your fault for failing to prevent it. Do not punish the puppy.
If you catch him in the act, don't let him finish. Pick him up (you
can give one low,growling "anghhh!" of disapproval) and take
him outside. Wait with him until he finishes, then praise. When you
bring him back in, put him in his crate while you clean up. Make sure
you use one of those scent removing solutions, such as Simple Solution,
to remove all traces of odor. If the odor is not completely neutralized
the dog will be attracted back to the same place. In a pinch, seltzer
works pretty well.
Asking to Go Out
Once the pup has the idea of housetraining, you can teach him to signal
you when he needs to go. If your dog hasn't already developed a signal
by himself, decide what you want him to do. Some options are barking,
going to the door and scratching, or even ringing a bell.
Teach him the signal as a
separate exercise. I strongly recommend using clicker training to teach
the new behavior.
When you recognize his need
to eliminate, ask him, with some enthusiam, "Do you want to go
out?" Put on his lead, and take him to the door. At the door, have
him perform his signal behavior. Click/treat and take him out. (Or if
he really needs to go, click and treat after he potties.) If you opt
not to clicker train, use praise and/or treats instead, but otherwise,
follow the same procedure. Before long, your pup will automatically
give you the signal in response to your "Do you want to go out"
question, and shortly thereafter, he will initiate the signalling behaviour
when he needs to eliminate.
In all fairness, though,
do not tease him with the "out" question by not following
through. If you do, the question will lose it's meaning and confuse
the dog.
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